JDSJDS wrote:John Gilman is a wine writer in the U.S., kind of an 'anti-Parker' type who has long railed against high alcohol wines, over-ripeness, commercial yeasts, etc. He tends to champion small growers and terroir.
He was recently interviewed and talked about the Australian's use of screw caps, particularly for rieslings. Let's just say he's not a fan:
"But beyond my rant on whether or not all these “treatments” (rather an Orwellian use of the word) that the Aussies put their wines through are safe, there is little doubt that copper finings and the like do strip out much of the character of the wines, and are still completely ineffectual and simply put off the day when the wines go into permanent reduction under screwcap and are ruined. How do you make a screwcap-sealed wine taste and smell like rotting cabbage or burning rubber- put it in the cellar for a few years. They almost all get there over time".
The interview can be found at http://www.drvino.com/2009/01/05/screwcaps-scores-riesling-the-loire-cali-cab-john-gilman-part-two/.
I don't read much of his reviews or writings, but tend to agree with his views on terrior, over-ripeness, globalization of wine, etc. But I don't know where he's coming from on the screwcap issue, or why he identifies it as an Australian issue (why not NZ?).
Any thoughts?
David wrote:JDSJDS wrote:John Gilman is a wine writer in the U.S., kind of an 'anti-Parker' type who has long railed against high alcohol wines, over-ripeness, commercial yeasts, etc. He tends to champion small growers and terroir.
He was recently interviewed and talked about the Australian's use of screw caps, particularly for rieslings. Let's just say he's not a fan:
"But beyond my rant on whether or not all these “treatments” (rather an Orwellian use of the word) that the Aussies put their wines through are safe, there is little doubt that copper finings and the like do strip out much of the character of the wines, and are still completely ineffectual and simply put off the day when the wines go into permanent reduction under screwcap and are ruined. How do you make a screwcap-sealed wine taste and smell like rotting cabbage or burning rubber- put it in the cellar for a few years. They almost all get there over time".
The interview can be found at http://www.drvino.com/2009/01/05/screwcaps-scores-riesling-the-loire-cali-cab-john-gilman-part-two/.
I don't read much of his reviews or writings, but tend to agree with his views on terrior, over-ripeness, globalization of wine, etc. But I don't know where he's coming from on the screwcap issue, or why he identifies it as an Australian issue (why not NZ?).
Any thoughts?
What utter rubbish. If any wine has benifited from screwcap it is riesling. And aged riesling.
I think this septic has had his nose in the septic for too long.
JDSJDS wrote: ... But I don't know where he's coming from on the screwcap issue, or why he identifies it as an Australian issue (why not NZ?).
Any thoughts?
SueNZ wrote:JDSJDS wrote: ... But I don't know where he's coming from on the screwcap issue, or why he identifies it as an Australian issue (why not NZ?).
Any thoughts?
He probably doesn't know NZ exists - or like others from the big place he may just think NZ is just another state of Orztralia.
Waiters Friend wrote:Secondly (and Blue, this relates to the thread as a whole, not to your comments personally), no-one has mentioned the screw cap trials undertaken by Yalumba / Pewsey Vale et al in the 1970s, which partially contributed to the prevalence of screw caps today. There have been some stunning wines go the distance from those years, and I doubt they would have got there if under cork.
This thread applies to riesling, of course. The jury is still out on the optimum closure for Blue's $100 wines - but the verdict is well and truly in for riesling and other unwooded whites.
Cheers
Allan
Waiters Friend wrote:Blue wrote: Science aside, i just dont like the idea of cellaring screwcapped great australian riesling for the next 20 years. Maybe i will change my perception one day, but for now i just cant spend more than $100 for a bottle of wine or any wine that can age for more than 15 years sealed with screwcap. quote]
G'day Blue
Firstly, you will be delighted to know that good Aussie riesling that might make 15-20 years of age is a lot cheaper than $100 a bottle. $20-$40 will see you well and truly right. A $50 Chardonnay won't go the distance.
Secondly (and Blue, this relates to the thread as a whole, not to your comments personally), no-one has mentioned the screw cap trials undertaken by Yalumba / Pewsey Vale et al in the 1970s, which partially contributed to the prevalence of screw caps today. There have been some stunning wines go the distance from those years, and I doubt they would have got there if under cork.
This thread applies to riesling, of course. The jury is still out on the optimum closure for Blue's $100 wines - but the verdict is well and truly in for riesling and other unwooded whites.
Cheers
Allan
Waiters Friend wrote:Blue wrote: no-one has mentioned the screw cap trials undertaken by Yalumba / Pewsey Vale et al in the 1970s, which partially contributed to the prevalence of screw caps today. There have been some stunning wines go the distance from those years, and I doubt they would have got there if under cork.
Cheers
Allan
Blue wrote:He has a lot of respect for Australian Riesling. I have to agree with him, potential and the quality of Australian Riesling is very high. I am a big fan of Australian riesling and have a lot of respect for it. No doubt they will age very well, especially the good ones.
Science aside, i just dont like the idea of cellaring screwcapped great australian riesling for the next 20 years. Maybe i will change my perception one day, but for now i just cant spend more than $100 for a bottle of wine or any wine that can age for more than 15 years sealed with screwcap. Just cant picture myself twisting and opening screwcapped bottles of my properly cellared wines in 2020, i'd rather pop the bottles. Romance or maybe even stupidity
David wrote:JDSJDS wrote:John Gilman is a wine writer in the U.S., kind of an 'anti-Parker' type who has long railed against high alcohol wines, over-ripeness, commercial yeasts, etc. He tends to champion small growers and terroir.
He was recently interviewed and talked about the Australian's use of screw caps, particularly for rieslings. Let's just say he's not a fan:
"But beyond my rant on whether or not all these “treatments” (rather an Orwellian use of the word) that the Aussies put their wines through are safe, there is little doubt that copper finings and the like do strip out much of the character of the wines, and are still completely ineffectual and simply put off the day when the wines go into permanent reduction under screwcap and are ruined. How do you make a screwcap-sealed wine taste and smell like rotting cabbage or burning rubber- put it in the cellar for a few years. They almost all get there over time".
The interview can be found at http://www.drvino.com/2009/01/05/screwcaps-scores-riesling-the-loire-cali-cab-john-gilman-part-two/.
I don't read much of his reviews or writings, but tend to agree with his views on terrior, over-ripeness, globalization of wine, etc. But I don't know where he's coming from on the screwcap issue, or why he identifies it as an Australian issue (why not NZ?).
Any thoughts?
What utter rubbish. If any wine has benifited from screwcap it is riesling. And aged riesling.
I think this septic has had his nose in the septic for too long.

GraemeG wrote:That extensive quote from JG reads rather like the "we-never-landed-on-the-moon, 9-11-was-a-set-up" websites you can find around the place.
Let's see if I've got it right. Winemakers in Oz & NZ rush lemming-like for the screwcap for reasons that aren't explained. Their wines all start turning reductive. They react by chucking masses of copper sulphate into the wines to delay the onset of reduction. But, first, because copper sulphate is toxic, they have to get Australian regulations changed to allow them to do it. Everyone quietly co-operates to allow this to happen. And, even better "Without the "copper haze" formation, there is no way to tell how much residual copper one is consuming when drinking a wine from Australia or New Zealand that has been copper fined, as testing is no longer done for these wines with the abolition of the maximum level for safe human consumption by the good folks responsible for the Australian Food Standards Code." The sneaky devils! If only Mr Gilman had 50 bottles of Oz/NZ screwcapped wine tested in a lab, and proved these toxic levels, he'd get Decanter's Man of the Year, not to mention othe awards for services to Public Health. But, strangely, he hasn't.
Anyway, these reckless winemakers, who've presumably stopped drinking their own wines by now, then attempt to strip out the copper by using an agent that could turn into cyanide.
"Although I have not a shred of evidence for this occurring in anything but the most isolated and extreme instances, I'm not putting any of these dangerous Oz/NZ wines in my cellar". Even the tinfoil hat won't protect you, eh? Scary stuff.
At least the Y2K doomsday folk had to shut up by December 2000. This screwcap beat-up could go on forever...
Graeme
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